Elvas, Portugal’s Ultimate Fortified City

A crackling fire in the common room of the charming hostel where I stayed just outside the fortified walls of Elvas, Portugal, was an inviting place for guests to gather one evening and share stories of a day’s adventure in the historic city.

Some of our clothes, soaked from walking in the rain that day, were draped strategically over chairs near the fireplace. We found umbrellas useless in the high winds. Pedro, the owner of the hostel (see photo), kept a watchful eye on the fire as the evening progressed.

The lights that illuminated the city walls helped guide us back to the hostel that cool, misty night.

From the middle 1600’s until modern times, Elvas served as a garrison border town. Over the centuries numerous hilltop fortresses guarded the long border with Spain. Elvas, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was a significant one of these war fortresses with a unique dry-ditch defense system and outlying fortresses which served as lookouts for invaders.

Elvas has a beautifully restored main plaza which is anchored by a 16th century cathedral. Its modest exterior is in sharp contrast to the exquisite craftsmanship found within. The interior is a treasure of high Gothic arches, marble pillars, beautiful paintings, and finely-carved wooden details.

Steep, narrow, cobbled streets lead to small, hidden plazas. The labyrinth of streets was designed and built by the Muslim Moors, one of several occupying forces of the city. I discovered a small brass plaque on a crumbling wall which identified the entrance to the old Jewish Quarter where a gate once stood.

Over the centuries Elvas was three successive walled towns and contains many remnant walls from its turbulent history. I followed an occasional muddy path, passed through deep archways, climbed up and down long ramps, and walked over wooden draw bridges that spanned deep, green ditches. Traditional eateries and inviting pastry shops were never far away. I often made a detour at a local bakery when I caught a whiff of freshly-baked bread. The Castelo, Elvas’ small, but highly fortified castle, offered dramatic views of the plains stretched out beyond.

The grand Amoreira Aqueduct which was built in the late 16th and early 17th centuries dominates the countryside outside the city, stretching for miles. In addition to supplying water to Elvas, the purpose of this imposing structure was to enable the stronghold to withstand a lengthy siege. I felt dwarfed standing under its tiers of arches which extended up to 40 meters (130 feet) high at some points.

My last night in Elvas I was the only guest in the hostel, so I had the fireplace all to myself. In this peaceful, cozy setting, I sat in a big easy chair, my feet propped up to receive the fire’s warmth, some bread, cheese and hot tea at my fingertips, and my computer on my lap. I proceeded to write this blog posting, finishing it as the last embers faded.

My visit to Elvas was magical.

 

 

 

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Porto, Portugal – A Historic Seaport

Porto, Portugal’s second largest city, is built on hillsides overlooking the Rio Douro (Douro River).  The historic section of the city called Riberia, which includes the waterfront, is designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. The Romans were the first to make the city into a significant port. Today Porto is the economic capitol of northern Portugal.

Stylish walking streets with upscale fashion stores fan out in every direction in the historic downtown area. While strolling on one of these pedestrian streets near my guesthouse one afternoon, a lively group of female “tuna” singers and musicians attracted my attention. The Portuguese guitars which they played, their harmonious serenades, and their traditional attire which included a flowing black cape, all added to their electric performance. One singer explained to me in perfect English that they were university students trying to raise money to keep their instruments in good working order.

These traditional “tuna” university groups originated in Spain and Portugal in the 13th century as a means for students to earn money or food.

Free walking tours, which can be found online, were offered daily at our guesthouse. On one of these tours we explored the hilly, historic Riberia section of town, winding through medieval streets. The most picturesque streets and alleyways were in two of the four old Jewish quarters. There was little indication of their former presence. Several of the synagogues that flourished here before the Inquisition were either completely destroyed or converted to Christian edifices.

Beautiful, historic azulejos (hand-painted tiles) which are prolific in towns all over Portugal, greeted us at every turn – on churches, walls of houses, and in the train station on huge, awe-inspiring murals.

The plaza in front of the grand Porto Cathedral which was perched on one of Porto’s many hills, offered sweeping views. On the dark side, many lost their lives in this plaza during the Inquisition. This medieval cathedral is one of the city’s oldest monuments and one of the most important Romanesque monuments in Portugal today.

Climbing down steep staircases, we ended our walking tour on the historic Praca da Riberia (Riberia Square) which stretches along the Rio Douro. Outdoor cafes which lined the waterfront were packed with people soaking up the afternoon sun. Dog-walkers shared the plaza with strollers and male “tuna” troubadours. Classic wooden boats which have ferried Porto’s famous Port wine for centuries, offered tourists a ride. I took one up the mouth of the river. Picturesque fishing enclaves with hand-painted boats dotted the riversides.

The highlight of my day was when one of the troubadours of a tuna group asked, in perfect English, if I would mind being serenaded to. Following my approving nod, he proceeded to throw a cape around my shoulders and the shoulders of several other approving female onlookers. Several of the singers then got down on their knees and serenaded us. I felt honored.

 

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